Improvement in sewing-machines for boots and shoes



O. DANGE L. Sewing-Machine for Boots and Shoes.

No. 199,802. Paten'td Jan. 29,1s7s..

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W-i'LqESEEE N. PETERS, PHOTO-LITHOGRAFHER, WASHINGTON. I10 I UNITEDSTATEsf PATENT OFF on.

CHRISTIAN DANOEL, OF NEW Yon N. Y., ASSIGNOR T0 CHARLES" GOODYEAR,JR.,0F SAME PLACE.

I MPROVEMENT IN SEWING-MACHINES FOR BOOTS AND SHOES Specificationforming part of Letters Patent No. 199,802, dated January 29, 1878;application filed I November 27, 1876. I

To all whom it may concern: r

Be it known that I, CHRISTIAN DANCEL, of; the city, county, and State ofNew York, have invented an Improved Sewing-Machine for Boots and Shoes,of which the following is a specification: 1

This invention relates to a sewing-machine Specially designed forstitching outsoles to welts. The machine employs a reciprocating curvedneedle, as in the class of machine rep-; resented in United StatesPatent N 0. 124,393,

granted to Michael J. Stein, that machine,

however, being adapted to sew what is known as turned shoes,rather thanto sew outsoles to welts.

' In machines heretofore made, employing curved needles to stitchoutsoles to welts already attached to uppers, the doubled or chainportion of the loop forming the chain stitch has been so drawn throughthe outer sole as to lie in the channel cut in the face of the outersole; but this plan has been found to be objectionable, because of thetendency of the single thread to out into the welt, and because of thedifficulty in properly covering the loop of thread lying in the channel.The stitch in leather work is drawn very close, and the single portionof the thread lying on that side of the stock from which the needleemerges is so drawn by the needle, as it draws the stitch taut, that itembeds itself into the stock more than does the thread forming thedoubled part of the loop. When the chain or doubled part is left in thechannel,the channel has to be deeper, thereby weakening the sole, orelse it is difficult to cause the channel-flap to properly cover thechain. If the chain is left so as tobe easily imcovered, the loop ofthread becomes quickly worn off, thereby injuring the integrity of theshoe, whereas the sole should wear a longtime without permitting thethread uniting the outsole and welt to become worn.

The invention consists in a narrow worksupport, provided with a lip, incombination with a straight awl to penetrate the outer sole, entering itat the bottom of the channel, and with a curved needle adapted to enterthe welt and the hole formed in the sole by the awl, substantially asdescribed.

Also, in the combination, in a sewing-machine, of a stationary rest orsupport for the material, a channel-guide free to adapt itself to thevarying thickness of the material prior to each descent of the awl, andthe formation of the stitch, and a locking device to .hold thechannelguide positively while the awl enters the material and the stitchis formed. 4 I V Also, ina channel-guide and its toothed shank, incombination with the locking device and pinion and pawl, to engage anddisengage the locking device when the awl moves backward to againpenetrate the sole. V Figure 1 is a view of the machine, looking at itfrom the right-hand side. Fig. 2 is a front view; Fig. 3, a detail oftheawl-stock and the channel-guide and presser, and its locking devices.Fig. 4 shows top and end viewsof the work-supporting arm 5; Fig. 5, atop view of the cam-shaft and cams; and Fig. 6, a detail of the needleand its shield.

The driving-shaft a, mounted upon a framework of suitable construction,is providedwith a series of cam grooves, b 0 (Z c, and a cam'to operatethe difierent parts. The camgroove b receives a friction roll or stud onan elbow-lever, f, pivoted at g, the short arm 2 of the lever beingadjustably connected with the head it for the awl-stock pivoted at t,the con 'nection being inade with an arm, 3, of the head by anadjustable set-screw, 4, to permit the head to be vibrated more or lessabout its pivot t, to regulate the length of the feeding stroke of theawlj, carried by an awl-stock, k,fitted to be reciprocated in guides inthe head h, and provided with a pin, 5, connected by'a link, I, with theshort arm of a rocking arm or lever, m, provided with a friction-rolleror stud that enters the cam-groove c, the awl deriving its reciprocatorymovements from this lever and cam andlink. 1

When the awl is in the sole the head h is moved on its pivot to feed thematerial for a new stitch, and when the awl rises above the sole thehead is turned in the reverse direction,

carrying the awl back from the direction of its feeding movement.

The cam-groove d receives a pin projecting" from the thread-carrier n,to move the looper laterally, and the periphery of the hub in which isformed the groove is provided witha depressed portion, 6, (see dottedlines, Fig. 1,) to act upon rollers at the end of the threadcarrier.

The thread-carrier is pivoted at 7 upon a swiveling-block, 8, and isoperated so that its lower end, carrying a thread, is caused to lay thesame about the end of the curved needle 12 provided with a hook andattached to a segmental needle-slide, q, adapted to move in a segmentalguideway, r. This slide q is connected by a link, 8, with a lever, t,pivoted at u and operated by a cam-groove, w, formed in the side of thecam d. (See Fig.1, dotted lines.)

The needle sh own in this machine is like the one described in theUnited States Patent to Charles Goodyear, Jr., No. 112,802, to whichreference may be had.

Instead of the usual cast-off I emply a nee- -dle-guide,a as representedin UnitedStates Patent to Charles Goodyear, J r., N 0. 116,947,

to which reference may be had.

The. shank of the presser-foot or channelguide a fitted to move in thehead h, is shown as provided with rack-teeth b, engaged by the teeth ofa pinion, a, connected with a locking device, d, in this instanceprovided with ratchet-teeth 4:, adapted to be engaged by a pawl ordetent, e, pivoted at 10, and held in engagement with the locking deviceby a spring, f. The detent is moved in opposition to the spring by alever, g, acted upon by the cam e. The lower end of the channel openeror presser a rides in the groove or channel in advance of the needle, inthe bottom of the sole, thereby keeping the channel open. When the awlis moved backward after its feedingstroke the lever 9' acts upon thepawl or detent and frees the locking device, permitting thechannel-opener, then held down by reason of its weight or by the springk connecting the locking device d and awl-stock, to yield to thethickness of the stock being sewed.

When the awl commences its descent the spring h is distended, therebyforcing the channel-guide down upon the material, and, just as the headis moved to give the awl its feeding movement, the detent is caused toengage the locking device and hold the channel guide or presser down inthe channel during the time that the feed takes place and while theneedle rises through the welt and outsole to receive the thread.

The locking device has a number of ratchetteeth, according to thethickness of the stock, for the reception of the teeth of the detent,this being necessary because the locking device changes its positionupon its center through the action of the rack and pinion, according asthe channel-guide is raised or lowered by the varying thickness of thestock.

In the Stein machine, herein mentioned, the

channel-guide was always pressed down to a certain defined position, andthe work-support was adapted to yield to the varying thickness of thematerial.

In a machine for sewing outsoles to welts, as herein described, thesupport for the material being sewed should be rigid. This support orrest for the work is a rigid arm, h

- notched, at its forward end, at i, to permit the passage of theneedle, the arm at that point being made narrow to permit the needle towork close to the upper, to place the seam properly with relation to theupper. The arm h is solid or unperforated opposite the point where theawl perforates the leather before moving laterally to feed the sole fora new stitch. In this way a burr is not formed on the outer face of thewelt and the outer sole next the welt. This arm is provided with a lip,j,to enter the angle between the upper and welt, and the arm is ofsufficient depth to serve as a guard to prevent the curved needle frompenetrating the upper, which would injure the shoe or boot.

This lip, besides increasing the width of the arm at top, also acts toretain the shoe or boot from rising'or falling under the action of theawl or needle. The arm also performs the purpose of a gage, as well as asole-support.

The arm h is made adjustablewith relation to the needle, so as toregulate the distance of the line of stitching from the edge of the shoeor from the edge of the welt, and arms of different widths may beemployed, according to the distance itis desired to placethe line ofstitches away from the upper.

The springh or an equivalent spring, might be connected with the shankof the channelguide, instead of with the locking device:

The detent and locking device might be varied, as to their particularconstruction, without departing from this invention, so long as they actin unison, as described, to permit the channel-guide to yield when theawl and channel-guide are moved back, and to lock the guide when thefeed takes place and the needle penetrates the material. 7 V

The devices herein described for movingvthe awl may be embodied in amachine for sewing turns, as described in the Stein patent, beforereferred to.

The thread k, waxed or otherwise, placed upon the spool Z, is passedthrough a suitable tube or passage, heated in any usual way, and is thenled through the eye of the thread-carrier, it passing over suitableguide-pulleys 11 The work-support, as herein shown, is constructed toform a firm unyielding support for the material acted upon by the awl,which enters, but does not pass through, the material;

The awl, driven partially through the material, is made to move thematerial until the awl and needle are in line, and then the needleenters the material in line with the awlhole, the awl rising therefrom.

The needle used is a curved needle. If it were not so, it would beimpossible to stitch the outer sole to a welt stitched to an upper heldon a last, for a straight needle could not be made to work to sew aboutthe shank portions of the sole. To successfully sew an out- 4 sole to awelt, the upper being on a last, a curved needle must be used, and acurved needl'etherefore becomes an important and actually necessaryelement of the machine.

I disclaim the use of a straight hooked needle.

The driving-shaft is rotated in any usual way.

I claim- I 1. The narrow rest or work-support k i,provided with a lip,j, in combination with a straight awl to penetrate the outer sole,entering it at the bottom of the channel, and with a curved needleadapted to enter the welt and the hole formed in the sole by the awl,substantially as described.

2. In combination, a stationary rest 01; support for the material, achannel-guide free to adapt itself to the varying thickness of thematerial prior to each descent of the awl and the formation of thestitch and a locking device to hold the channel-guide positivelywhilethe awl enters the material and the stitch is formed.

3. The channel-guide a andits toothed shank b, in a combination with thelocking device, pinion,pawl, and mechanism for causing the said pawl toengage and disengage the locking device when the awl moves backward toagain penetrate the sole, substantially as described.

4. In combination, the awl-bar, the locking device, the channelguide,and the spring connected with the awl to draw down the channel-guideupon the material as the awl descends, substantially as described.

In testimonywhereof I have signed my name to this specification in thepresence of two subscribing witnesses.

Y CHRISTIAN DANOEL.

Witnesses f GEO. W. GREGORY, L. H. LATIMER.

